Arcos de la Frontera does not reveal itself all at once. It rises above the plains of Cádiz on a dramatic limestone ridge, with whitewashed houses pressed close together and church towers catching the Andalusian sun. From below, the town looks almost impossible, as if it has grown straight out of the cliff. This is one of the great stops on the Route of the White Villages, a chain of historic towns across inland Andalusia known for bright white façades, winding lanes and hill
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