This is the world capital of olive oil, but Jaén is not only about groves and mills. It is also a city of layered history, where Iberian sculpture, Islamic architecture, Jewish heritage and 20th-century memory all sit within walking distance of one another. For travellers who enjoy architecture, food, viewpoints and places that still feel lived-in, Jaén is a brilliant stop in inland Andalusia. Jaén is the kind of Inland Andalusian city that rewards people who look twice. At f
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