Granada 

Granada has an unmistakably Moorish flavour, as it was the last city to be reconquered by the Catholic Monarchs in 1492. Its gastronomy, craftwork and urban landscape are shaped by its glorious historical past.

Fountains, viewpoints and “Cármenes” – the houses surrounded by gardens which are typical of this city – create delightful, unforgettable neighbourhoods. It is no surprise that one of its historic districts, Albaicín, is a World Heritage Site, together with the Alhambra and Generalife. It was an important cultural centre for many centuries, under both Islamic and Christian rulers, and still boasts an admirable array of culture and leisure activities. Film, music and theatre programmes and festivals are complemented by permanent and travelling exhibitions covering all fields of knowledge. Renaissance palaces are home to seminars, conferences and lectures, while the most innovative infrastructure is ready for larger-scale events.

What to do

You cannot go to Granada without visiting the Alhambra, a spectacularly situated Moorish wonder. Every year, two million people explore the 13th-century hilltop palace/fort, soaking up the eye-popping wonders of the Nasrid Palaces, where every inch is covered with geometric tiles and intricate plasterwork; even the wooden ceilings are patterned with coloured designs to represent heaven. Ideally, book in advance, although a few tickets are available at the main entrance most days at 8.30am (off-season weekdays are a good bet). Be aware that the Nasrid Palaces (the main attraction within the Alhambra) are 15 15-minute’ walk from the entrance — don’t be late, or you’ll miss your ticketed entrance time.  

In the centre, cross over the River Darro, directly below the palace, to see El Bañuelo, the best-preserved Arab baths in Andalusia — 1,000 years old, so no longer in use. The ritual of bathing had important religious significance, with different days for women and men; look up to see the entrancing star-shaped skylights. If the 11th-century ablutions house makes you long for a modern version, nip back across the river to Hammam Al-Andalus. This deliciously indulgent hammam has Moorish tiles and horseshoe arches. The hot pools and massages will soon soothe those ski-stiffened muscles.

Carmen de los Martires is also worth a visit. The walled garden of this 19th-century house has rows of palm trees and long rectangular pools. You’ll also see Alhambra-like colonnades with delicate pillars and carving, without the monument’s crowds. Parque Federico Lorca and Huerta de San Vicente make for another pleasant day out. The museum, towards the edge of the city, is where Lorca wrote The House of Bernarda Alba. The original furnishings remain and outside you’ll see the poet’s summerhouse among linden trees and roses.

Alcaiceria might be less charming than the authentic markets of Fez and Marrakesh, but it is still diverting. The neo-Moorish bazaar was rebuilt in the 19th century after a fire and spread along narrow alleys between Plaza Bib-Rambla and the cathedral. Expect good-natured banter with the stallholders, who purvey ceramics, carpets, leather bags and other Moroccan, Middle Eastern and Indian goods.

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