Light changes the way Spain feels. A Castilian winter strips the air clean until stone, sky and shadow look almost etched. And Mediterranean autumn softens the heat and turns the afternoons honey-coloured. Both seasons can be beautiful, but they suit different kinds of travel. The phrase “Velázquez light” is part romance and part truth. Diego Velázquez was born in Seville, worked at the Spanish court in Madrid, and painted with a control of tone that still feels startling at
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