Zuheros does not announce itself with noise. It appears above the olive groves like a white ship caught on a hillside, its castle looking out over the Subbética countryside and its streets falling away in bright, narrow lines. This is one of those Andalusian villages that seems small at first glance, then grows richer with every turn. A doorway framed with flowers. A glimpse of rock beyond a whitewashed wall. A small square where the air smells of sun-warmed stone, countrysid