Olhão, The sleepy Algarve Fishing town travel guide where you’ll find the real Portugal

Olhão travel guide, how to get there and where to stay.Olhao’s boutique hotels and chichi waterfront are new — the fresh, affordable seafood, ancient windy streets and bougainvillea-covered walls are not. The secret is out …

Olhão developed into a major fishing port in the 20th century, though it was already a sizable village in the 1600s. The fishing tradition dates back to Roman times, as evidenced by remnants of fish salting factories in the area. Today, it’s renowned for having the Algarve’s largest fish market, and, unlike many former fishing towns in the region, a significant portion of its residents still work in the fishing industry. The tourism sector is also thriving, as the city serves as the gateway to the islands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park. The beaches on these islands are becoming more popular each year, with regular ferries departing from the port.

The narrow streets of the largely pedestrianized center lead to a couple of whitewashed churches topped with stork nests, and are lined with cube-shaped houses featuring rooftop terraces, said to be inspired by North African architecture. Along the waterfront, there are several seafood restaurants with outdoor seating, attracting tourists year-round. Each August (usually during the second week), the city hosts the lively “Festival do Marisco,” or “seafood festival,” offering fresh seafood and live entertainment for several days. Check the Olhão travel guide

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How to Get to Olhão

Olhão is 15 minutes from Faro, heading east on road N125. It’s just 10 minutes by train, and there are about a dozen departures per day (check the times at the cp.pt website). Buses (numbers 63 and 67, operated by Vamus) also connect the two cities, taking between 20 and 25 minutes. The bus terminal in Olhão is on Rua General Humberto Delgado, in the city center. If you’re coming from Tavira, the drive takes about 25 minutes, heading west on highway A22 or road N125. The train from Tavira also takes about 25 minutes, and there are also a dozen departures per day. It’s also possible to take Vamus bus 67 from Tavira, but it takes about 40 minutes and there are very few services per day, so the train is the most recommended option.

Best Things To Do and See in Olhão

1.Olhão Market

Built in 1916, this large market is Olhão’s main attraction besides the beaches. It’s where locals go each morning for fresh produce and the catch of the day, and where tourists go to experience a typical Portuguese fish market and see all kinds of fish. It’s made up of two identical red brick buildings (pictured at the top of this page; one for the fruit and vegetables and the other for the fish), surrounded by outdoor cafés. The best day for a visit is Saturday, when there are extra stalls selling traditional products from the region.

2.Municipal Museum

A building from 1771, which originally housed services for the local fishermen (such as a pharmacy and a butcher shop), is now a small museum explaining the history of Olhão. There are permanent displays of archaeological finds, as well as temporary exhibitions related to local culture. Outside is a monument inaugurated in 1931, to celebrate the men who led the revolt against Napoleon’s troops in Olhão, in 1808.

3.Igreja Matriz de Olhão

Facing the Municipal Museum, in the same square, is Olhão’s main church and most significant monument. It opened for services in 1715, but was only completed in 1722, thanks to donations from the local fishermen. The interior is surprisingly rich, with five gilded chapels reflecting the baroque style of the early 18th century and a ceiling decorated with a fresco.

4.Capela do Senhor Dos Aflitos

Right behind the Igreja Matriz is this large chapel with a tile panel on the façade depicting Christ on the Cross. It’s where many locals go light a candle and say their daily prayers -- a tradition that started with fishermen’s wives on stormy days, hoping for their husbands’ safe return from the sea.

5.Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Soledade

When it was built in the early 1600s, this was Olhão’s first stone building. At that time, the city was a tiny community with nothing but fisherman huts. It’s a modest church, featuring a small dome and an altarpiece with an image of St. Lucy. Its rooftop is a favorite spot for storks to build their nests.

6.Caíque Bom Sucesso

Anchored at the marina by the market, this is a replica of a boat that took a group of 17 local fishermen to Brazil in 1808. These men crossed the Atlantic to inform King João VI, who had escaped to Rio de Janeiro when Napoleon invaded Portugal, that the people of Olhão had managed to kick out the French. Measuring 20 meters in length and 5 meters in width, it’s hard to believe that such a small boat made such a voyage. It took three months, but it made it to its destination, and the king rewarded the fishermen by making Olhão a town independent from Faro.

7.Jardim Pescador Olhanense

Next to the market, on the waterfront, is this park which serves as a meeting point for locals and as a stage for cultural events. It preserves an old bandstand and benches decorated with tile panels illustrating episodes from local history, like the revolt of the people of Olhão against the French and the arrival of the Bom Sucesso boat in Rio de Janeiro.

Murals on Rua Manuel Tomé Viegas Vaz

The façades of the former canning factories in the center of Olhão have been completely covered with murals. They depict scenes of local life in the heydays of Olhão’s fishing industry, and are in black and white, giving the impression of old photographs.

Beaches and the Ria Formosa Natural Park

Olhão’s beaches are in islands of the Ria Formosa Natural Park. To know more about this protected area, head to Quinta de Marim. The site is a little neglected, but you’ll be able to follow paths and boardwalks through 3 kilometers (almost 2 miles), observing different animal species in their natural habitat, and also get to see an archaeological site with Roman remains from the 4th century. This is also the breeding center of the Portuguese Water Dog, a breed made famous when U.S. President Barack Obama chose it for the White House dog (he ended up having two, a male and a female). In a renovated chalet, that belonged to a former mayor of Olhão, visitors can know more about environmental protection, through exhibitions and events held in an auditorium.For the beaches, see the Olhão beaches guide.

Hotels in Olhão

1.Real Marina Hotel & Spa

The best hotel in Olhão is located on the waterfront, and many of its spacious rooms face the sea, as does the outdoor pool. There’s also an indoor pool that’s part of the spa. At the two restaurants, you have the choice of local or international cuisine. The ferries to the islands, as well as the city’s famous market, are a short walk away.

SEE PRICES, AVAILABILITY AND MORE DETAILS HERE: Real Marina Hotel & Spa

2.Pure Formosa Concept Hotel

It’s right in the center, on the main avenue, and offers a great 360-degree panoramic view over the city from the rooftop terrace, where there’s a bar and a swimming pool. The 67 double rooms feature a contemporary minimalist design, as do the common areas such as the breakfast room.

SEE PRICES, AVAILABILITY AND MORE DETAILS HERE: Pure Formosa Concept Hotel

3.Hotel Cidade de Olhão

Found close to the train station and the center of town, this is a highly-rated 3-star hotel. It opened in a renovated building in 2016, and features a contemporary interior, an outdoor pool, studios with fully-equipped kitchenettes, and double rooms.

SEE PRICES, AVAILABILITY AND MORE DETAILS HERE: Hotel Cidade de Olhão